After the river walk a new road

Aap revolution




After the Pamba Walk, Riju Stephen and I (Ajit Joy) joined a new kind of revolution sweeping the country today. The revolution of the Aam Aadmi Party. This is the revolution that guarantees respect for humans, for environment, for justice, for dignity of the common man and a clean and decent society. We are now fully into the Aam Aadmi Party in Thiruvananthapuram and hope to change the current oppressive system to one of justice and sustainability. We look forward to many more joining us.

Palliyodam snake boats of Aranmulla

During our walk we came across a number of Palliyodam snake boats. This is the peculiar mighty boat of the Arnamulla area. In the off season they are kept in the shed awaiting the arrival of the next season. These days the number of bats have gone up with even a small area owning three Palliyodams.  A total of 50 Palliyodams today participate in the Vallam Kalli (Boat race) at Aranmula.  The first picture is courtesy Kerala Tourism showing the Palliyodam in action at Aranmulla.








Some pictures from Mesmerizing Kuttanad


Typical life of Kuttanad, water, water and more water. Bridges, boats, rain, paddy and people join into this sea of water into making  of this magical place. The pictures in this post were taken from governement line boats which we took tracing the flow of river Pamba in its final stages before it joins Vembanad Kayal. The main places include Thakazhy, Viyapuram, Chambakulam, Mambarikiry, Allapuzha, Nedumudy, Pallathuruthy and the place we stayed in Parambady.








































Day X, Last Day of the Pamba Walk

DSCN6125At our Idyllic location we were joined by two guests this morning who spent the last leg of the Pamba Walk with us. Pradeep Suthan, the Managing Editor of and Sundar a business man turned activist from Punnalur.

work goes on strengthening the sides of the river as part of the Kuttanad package to reduce flooding


Main branch of Pamba joins the Vembanad lake

We traveled by a boat of the Kerala water Transport that took us along the various Blocks of Kuttanad through one of the branches of Pamba and later on to the Vembanad lake where this branch joined the Pamba river. Travelling further on the Vembanad, we came to the spot where the main Branch of Pamba meets Vembanad.


Ajit Joy (l) and Riju Stephen below the Palluruthy bridge, Allapuzha at the completion of their 10 day Pamba walk, during which they walked about 130 kms along river Pamba

The river in the final stages crosses the Pallathuruthy bridge, famous for all the house boats parked there just before Allapuzha, and then in about 5-6kms its triumphant journey starting up in the misty mountains of the Western Ghats ends.


House boats clogging the waterway as we near Allapuzha


The Allapuzha boat getty

We are back in our homes in Thiruvanathapuram this evening and shall file a more detailed report tomorrow.

Pamba Walk Day IX, Kuttanad

IMAG0986The last but one day happened to be relaxed as a holiday; it was a cruise through the backwaters in Kuttanad. This was a voluntary decision as this was the only option to navigate through a vast area where Pamba branches out into several interconnected flows along with Manimalayar, Meenachal, and Achenkovil rivers to form a labyrinth of waterways. Those who are familiar with the geography of the area would know that covering long distances on foot is not a practical idea. We had two highlights before reaching our rest place; one was the interaction with Mankompu block panchayath president, and the other one was Fr Peelianickal, Executive Director of Kuttanand Vikasana Samithi.

The Thakazhi Bridge


Kuttanad from our boat

We got into the state owned transport boat starting from Viyapuram at 7.45am. Our destination was to get down at Mankombu. Throughout the boatride we enjoyed the  apparently pristine scenery. The flood waters had washed the weeds and hyacinths but the occasional plastics and Styrofoam were an eyesore amidst the morning bloom of water lilies. After an hours ride, we had our break fast at Takazhi. We rushed out with the boat crew to feast on hot idlies at a not so neat place just below the Thazhy bridge. There wasn’t a better place in the vicinity to eat. We  witnessed the shop owners using the waterfront to dump waste and were directly washing utensils in the lake. For any establishment on the waterfront, big or small there has to be piped water and a proper drainage for the waste water. Though it appears to be in a small scale, it is the small drops that eventually form large streams.


Kuttanad The rice basket of Kerala

Another two hours would take us to Mankompu. Getting to the road from the jetty reminded us of the marshy traverse through the rain forest during the initial phase of our journey.


Chambakulam Block Panchayat President Mrs Ramani S Banu

After emerging into the main road, the Champakkulam Block Panchayath office was right in front of us and we thought it was the right thing to go inside. In  the office we met the President Mrs Ramani S Banu.  She heartily welcomed us into her office and the discussion soon ran into the gravest issues that touch the heart and soul of the people in her panchayath that included the problem of land, loss of fish species, pollution in the Pamba and the problem of waste disposal where land was a luxury.


Father Thomas Peelianickal of the Kuttanad Vikasana Samithi

Father Thomas Peelianickal was the next man to visit. In office, he elaborated on the critical issues the Kuttanad region faces now. According to him, all the four rivers draining into Kuttanad, have to be treated as a single system, and in the current scheme of things, Pampa gets a whole lot more attention while the rest of the three Manimalayar, Meenachal, and Achenkovil are relatively neglected. He finally zeroed into the most critical issue in Kuttanad – the frequent flooding. The guys who were waiting to see Father before us had also told us that they were there to complain about the flooding. Father explained to us his main arguments on flooding.

  1. Thanneer Mukkam Bund, which is an end to end structure across the Vembanad Lake, separating Kochi Kayal from Vembanad Kayal (Lake) is not doing what it is ought to do. The middle of the bund is still a mud embankment and the existing shutter system is so defunct that it is not possible to open and close to regulate the flow of salt water from the sea into the paddy fields.
  2. Thottappally spillway which has been intended as an easy exit of the flood waters into the Arabian sea proved to be a fiasco because the engineers who designed the structure failed to create a system that maintains a seaward gradient to facilitate the flow of water into the sea.
  3. Allapuzha – Chenganoor AC Canal which originally is an excavation for sand for the construction of embankments brings in new waters from inlands and inundates the area as there are no proper drainage out to the sea from this canal.
  4. The reclaimed paddy fields towards the east of lower Kuttanad had channels that allowed the easy flow of waters including that from Pamba. Later, due to some reasons on the strengths of the retaining walls, the flow of water has been blocked at two places within the reclaimed paddy fields, which causes excessive flooding now.

Father Pelianickal thinks that floods are a blessing to the region as it washes all the dirt and filth out into the sea. Without the floodings Kuttanad has no existence as we see it today. Controlling a natural phenomena with our engineering expertise would often obstructs biological and physical balance in the area.

DSCN6013Later we took another boat that takes us through this heaven of waterways, paddy fields and tall swaying coconut trees to a place back of beyond to spend our last night in idyllic peace.

Pamba Walk Day 8, Pandanad, Mannar, Viyapuram, Pamba twists and turns and splits and then joins again


We started walking at 7.15 am from Chengannur downstream with Mannar as destination and if still well to go on to Viyapuram. Pamba was still flowing with the same vigour and might as we had seen her the previous day. Soon she would branch out into smaller streams as she prepares for her final leg into the low lying Kuttanad

Chenganoor bridge

backwaters of Allapuzha district. This walk has taken us through Pathnamthitta district quite extensievely and for brief periods through Idukki and Kottayam. For the next few days we will be in Allappuzha. Local people guide us on the way to be as close to Pamba as possible.

DSCN5967Throughout the day we stay close to the river and then when the road ends we get on to the main road. In Pandanad after two hours of walk, we are in our endeavour to catch the point where the first bifurcation occurs in Pamba during this stretch. On the way, we stopped for water at a house close to the water front.

Pamba in Pandanad


Chellamma speaks to us

Chellamma, the lady in the house, accosted us at the steps that lead to the river. She shared her childhood stories of her interactions with Pamba. “ All these places had sand banks, and there was a large sand bar in the middle where I used to take my bath”, She recollected. We guess the issue that troubles many of those who stay on the banks of the river is their accessibility to the river; the banks are muddy and overgrown with weeds. It is practically impossible to walk to the waters for a refreshing dip. Probably, this could be one of the factors that alienate the folks from the river which they once held so close to their hearts. According the locals we met on the street at Pandanad, which immediately comes after Chengannur, this place used to be inundated every year. But they do not have any flooding in their memory in the last 10-15 years. They attribute this to the river getting deeper due to sand mining.


Pamba forks with the right branch flowing on to meet Manimala river

We soon reach the spot of bifurcation called Kuthiathode. The main Pamba turns left and the other part turns right where in a kilometre it meets the Manimala river.


Pamba branches again to encircle Parumala

By noon, we crossed Pandanad follow the southern branch which further splits to enclose a larger landmass now known as Parumala. A small branch of Achenkoil river joins the southern branch of Pamba a few hundred meters down south. We cross the Illimala bridge to enter the island of Parumala. At Parumala, we are lucky to get a room in the famous Parumala church compound.


A temple Kavu

Just before reaching the church we see the famous temple Kotrathil Shrivalliya Panyannarkavu. This temple has two properties with acres of Kavu forests. Kavus do play an important role in preserving biodiversity as well as water balance. We are glad to see that the temple forests are well preserved. At Mannar the two branches of Pamba that enclose Parumala join again and flows on to Viyapuram.


A church by the Pamba on the way to Viyapuram

After lunch we walk on to Viyapuram. At several places we see fields being slowly filed with soil and house creeping in. Loss of the remaining wetlands this way would be very dangerous to the ecology of Kerala.

IMAG0940By evening we witness a branch from Achen Kovil river join Pamba just before Viyapuram. At Viyapuram we see the Pamba flow on wide and proud into Kuttanad. At a distance of about half a kilometre, Achen Kovil also flows on parallel to Pamba into Kuttanad. Tomorrow is the day we follow Pamba into Kuttanad, where it is known to branch and flow wildly before it reach Vembanad lake.